Chuck’s Food Shack: Get crazy with smoked pork loins stuffed with jalapeño cream cheese, topped with Ruffles and more - San Antonio Express-News

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Chuck’s Food Shack: Get crazy with smoked pork loins stuffed with jalapeño cream cheese, topped with Ruffles and more - San Antonio Express-News Posted: 29 Jun 2020 04:45 PM PDT When it comes to cooking for a crowd, I usually go with pork. It's hearty like beef but a lot less expensive — especially now. One of the best cuts is the pork loin, a jack-of-all-trades piece of meat that is cut from the backbone of a pig. A 3-pound pork loin at the grocery store will cost about $10 at current market prices. If you know little to nothing about making good meat, loin is a good place to start. "If anything, I think that I feel regret that I don't use it enough at my restaurant," said San Antonio chef Ceasear Zepeda, owner of Sangria on the Burg. "A good pork loin is tough to beat, and nobody will complain about the flavor." Pork loin can make a strong case as one of the most versatile meats in the protein universe. It can be grilled, smoked or baked, and it pairs well with herbs and sauces. Grocery stores sell a large variety of loins marinated with flavors such as lemon pepper, teriyaki and garlic-infusions if you don't have the time to do it yourself. They taste great and can be finished on a hot grill in about 30 to 45 minutes. Loin is also fantastic on the smoker, cooked low and slow with a dusting of dry rubs over hardy woods such as oak, pecan and mesquite. On ExpressNews.com: Welcome to Steak 101, with all the do's and don'ts for great grilled steak Visually, they're not great raw; a bag of pork loin looks like a giant tongue coming out of the vacuum-sealed bag. They are really lean, so it's important to find a way to incorporate some fat before cooking it. "You absolutely have to give them a fat boost for moisture," Zepeda said. "You can take a cut like a pork butt, and it's really hard to screw that up because there is so much (fat) in them. With a loin, you can go from being tender and juicy to overcooking them and drying them out in a matter of a few minutes." An easy and decadent way to add that fat is to cook two loins together with something high-fat in between, like cheese, then tie it all together for what I like to call a "Poor Man's Porchetta." One of my favorite variations is to layer cream cheese in between the two loins, then wrap them in bacon. The fat from the cheese and bacon blanket will keep the meat moist on the grill or smoker. Once they hit 140 to 145 degrees, allow them to rest at least 10 minutes. On ExpressNews.com: Chuck's Food Shack: Turn those rib, brisket trimmings into good eats There are many variations of this technique. I have seen recipes for loins stuffed with Italian sausage or chorizo. I have also done one loaded with the all-time great pairing of French onion dip and Ruffles potato chips. You could go the baked potato route, stuffing the pork with sour cream, chives, shredded cheddar cheese and bacon bits. A gooey application of queso flameado or a good pimento cheese would be heavenly. Chopped fruits or preserves such as pineapple, apples and mango can provide a unique flavor combo, too. "It's easy to visualize all of the combinations that could work if you tried it," Zepeda said. "As long as there is that element of fat with cheese, bacon or whatever else, there's a good chance you'll end up with a great meal." Or you could keep it simple, with a spice blend that allows the flavorful meat to be the star. But that's not nearly as fun. Recipe: Bacon-Wrapped Smoked Pork Loin Bomb Recipe: Smoked Pork Loin with Ruffles Potato Chips and Onion Dip Chuck Blount is a food writer and columnist covering all things grilled and smoked in the San Antonio area. Find his Chuck's Food Shack columns on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.comTo read more from Chuck, become a subscriber. cblount@express-news.net | Twitter: @chuck_blount | Instagram: @bbqdiver

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