What to Cook This Weekend - The New York Times
What to Cook This Weekend - The New York Times |
- What to Cook This Weekend - The New York Times
- What to Cook This Week - The New York Times
- The Many Lives of Lentils - The New York Times
- One-Pot Deluxe - The New York Times
| What to Cook This Weekend - The New York Times Posted: 30 Oct 2020 07:30 AM PDT  The Times published Molly O'Neill's recipe for old-fashioned beef stew (above) in 1994, in an article called "A Simmer of Hope." Nearly a million readers have called it up on NYT Cooking in the last four weeks alone. No surprise there. They reach for that stew every fall, it seems, and every time the national mood is unsettled, every time there's bad news amid the good. "Long before there were antidepressants," as Regina Schrambling wrote in 2001, after the terrorist attacks of Sept. 11, "there was stew." (Try her exemplary beef stew with Dijon and Cognac.) Halloween's tomorrow, and it's going to be a strange and spooky one this year, amid the pandemic. Daylight Saving Time ends on Sunday, bringing darkness to our afternoons. Election Day is Tuesday, and that's going to be a lot no matter whom you support. You'd be forgiven if you spent the weekend huddled up on the couch surfing news sites. But maybe you could join the hordes and make stew instead? Molly's is great, as is Regina's. So is Roy Choi's galbijjim, and Gavin Kaysen's pot roast and Sarah DiGregorio's pressure cooker Guinness beef stew with horseradish cream. Not a meat eater? There's Amanda Cohen's charred cauliflower stew. Also David Tanis's mushroom stew. And Martha Rose Shulman's collard greens tagine. Baking's restorative, too, and offers the pleasure of following a recipe to delicious completion: salted maple pie, say, or a berry apple butter pie. You could make chocolate chip cookies with honey-roasted almonds and chile, or just dip some caramel apples in advance of a screening of "Get Out." That's a nice weekend night. Venturing beyond the Dutch oven, I'd also like to make this cheesy baked pumpkin pasta with kale in the next couple of days. Also, vegan mapo tofu, and maybe braised chicken with rosemary, chickpeas and salted lemon. Thousands and thousands more recipes to cook right now await you on NYT Cooking. (You want to get started on your plan for Thanksgiving side dishes?) Go browse among them and see what appeals. Save the recipes you like and rate the ones you've cooked. You can leave notes on them, too, if you'd like to, either for yourself or for the benefit of your fellow subscribers. (Subscriptions, by the way, support the work of the dozens of journalists, engineers, designers and others who maintain our site and apps. They allow that work to continue. If you haven't already, I hope you will think about subscribing today.) And we will, of course, be standing by to help if anything should go wrong along the way, either in your kitchen or our technology. Just write cookingcare@nytimes.com and someone will get back to you. (And you can always write to me: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I read every letter sent.) Now, are you or do you know someone who works in the food industry? We're looking to hear from people working along the long chain of our food supply, essential workers on farms and fishing boats, in groceries, farmers' markets, professional kitchens, breweries, jam factories, bakeries, anywhere money's exchanged for labor related to food and drink. It's for an exciting project to be published in The Times, and I'd appreciate it if you could take part or forward the response form to someone who might be able to help. It's nothing to do with veal chops or cherry peppers, but I devoured "The Essential Agatha Christie," Tina Jordan's ace guide to the novelist's work, in The Times. And you should definitely read this Greg Bishop story in Sports Illustrated, about an Ohio big wave surfer who lost his board to the sea in Hawaii, and the schoolteacher in the Philippines who found it on the other side of the ocean two years later. Finally, here's Janet Maslin, back in The Times with an accounting of what's going on with the thriller writer Lee Child, who has brought his brother on as a co-writer: basically, Lee Child, Inc. Enjoy that, and I'll see you on Sunday. |
| What to Cook This Week - The New York Times Posted: 25 Oct 2020 07:30 AM PDT  Good morning. It's the cabaret queen Barbara Cook's birthday, and she would have been 92. It got me thinking about all the good preshow meals I knocked down at Café Carlyle before seeing her sing or seeing the Pizzarellis play. I wrote about that once, a long time ago, and emerged with a couple of great recipes to consider making on a Sunday in fall. One's for the lobster bisque the Carlyle Hotel's executive chef James Sakatos conjured out of stock, rice and less cream than you'd think: It's insanely flavorful (and it freezes well). The other's for his chicken hash, which was so well loved by the singer Bobby Short that the recipe took his name. That's a fine feed, too, and a reminder of the Before Times, when we could all squeeze together to eat and drink and listen. Make one of those recipes today and eat it with a martini. Your soundtrack? Mr. Short, of course. That's your Sunday taken care of, then, at least if those recipes struck a chord. If they don't, here's Lidey Heuck's latest: a barbecue pulled chicken that my friend Simon Andrews made into a sandwich (above) of remarkable intensity. Or, failing that, roasted butternut squash bread salad. You could always make pressure cooker garlicky beans with broccoli rabe. On Monday, I like the idea of vegetable pajeon, a scallion pancake filled with grated carrots, bell peppers and zucchini, or with whatever you've got in the crisper, really. Tuesday night, how about sheet-pan roasted fish with sweet peppers? I'll make that with tautog, where I stay, but hake, cod or flounder work just beautifully. Pull out of the midweek slump with roasted cauliflower with pancetta, olives and crisp Parmesan and cruise into Thursday with a cook's choice: either pasta with fried lemons and chile flakes or a simple spread of fish tacos. Then, to round out the week, a warming bowl of picadillo. ("I know I'm going to sound like a freak," one reader posted in a note below the recipe, "but I executed the recipe exactly as directed. It was amazing.") There are thousands and thousands more recipes to cook this week waiting for you on NYT Cooking. Go browse and see what appeals. Save the recipes you like to cook. Rate them once you've cooked them. Please leave notes on them if you have hacks or substitutions to suggest. And yes, you need a subscription to do that. Subscriptions support the work that we do. Subscriptions allow that work to continue. If you haven't already, will you think about subscribing today? Thanks so much. We will be standing by in case something goes wrong, either with your cooking or our technology. Just write cookingcare@nytimes.com. We'll get back to you, I promise. Now, it's a far cry from rillettes and cooking sous vide, but Rachel Monroe's article in The New Yorker about the detectives who investigate military phonies — those who lie about their service for personal gain — is an utterly fascinating read. Do read as well Patrick Blanchfield in The New Republic, on Matthew Hongoltz-Hetling's book, "A Libertarian Walks Into a Bear: The Utopian Plot to Liberate an American Town (and Some Bears)." It'd be nice to be driving through rain-soaked streets listening to Loski, featuring Popcaan, "Avengers," drill music turned dancehall with a classic rhyme from Popcaan when he arrives: "Aye, Loski, wha gwan, broski?" Finally, won't you take a little time to explore the Gregory Crewdson show at Gagosian Los Angeles, "An Eclipse of Moths"? It's terrific. I'll be back on Monday. |
| The Many Lives of Lentils - The New York Times Posted: 30 Oct 2020 10:20 AM PDT  At my house, dinner is not a three-course meal every night. More likely, it's a main course and a green salad. Sometimes, it is a one-pot main course, though not always. (I find that even when cooking a simple meal, at least two pots and pans are often involved.) And, quite frequently, dinner is meatless. While I consider myself a carnivore, my first love will always be vegetables. I'm quite happy to have a vegetarian meal several times a week. In addition to fresh vegetables, whole grains and dried legumes are usually part of the picture. I'm a big fan of every type of bean, whether cannellini or garbanzo, with a cupboard full of them to choose from. Lately, it is lentils that most strike my fancy. Aside from being delicious, they have the advantage of being quick-cooking. It usually takes no more than 30 minutes to simmer a pot, so they are perfect for a relatively fast meal. For most uses, any kind will work, but even among lentils, there are lots of types to choose from. If the meal is leaning in a Spanish direction, I might go with Pardina lentils, a small brown variety good for stews, soups or salads. For an Italianate dish, I like Castelluccio lentils from Umbria. When I want to veer toward Turkish flavors, I choose split red lentils. What follows are three lentil dinners I highly recommend. They are all vegetarian, and all have the advantage of tasting good, perhaps better, when prepared in advance. Lastly, each of these dishes can benefit from a drizzle of fruity extra-virgin olive oil as a final flourish, to make them that much more luscious. Image  This rustic stew improves after a day in the fridge. At the very least, try to cook it an hour or two ahead of the meal, so the elements have time to meld. (You can also make it to eat over several days, or to freeze for later.) Any size green or brown lentil will work here, if you can't get the small Spanish Pardina lentils (or French lentilles du Puy). But the smoky pimentón is vital: Along with extra-virgin olive oil, it provides real depth of flavor. There are many versions of pasta with lentils, a multitude of which are thick and stewlike, more lentil than pasta. This one emphasizes the pasta. The saucy lentil topping is similar to a traditional Bolognese ragù. The addition of fennel — seeds, bulb and chopped green fronds — gives it a surprising brightness and zest. For even more flavor, put your saved-up Parmesan rinds to use in the sauce. (Meat eaters: Add a little chopped anchovy or Italian fennel sausage.) You may have encountered the kind of vegetarian lentil loaf that masquerades as something else. With its brownish-grey color and a red ketchup glaze, it tries to emulate the homespun comfort of meatloaf. Most recipes call for Worcestershire and barbecue sauce to make it taste beefy. This delicate red lentil loaf is worlds away from that. It's all about the undisguised flavor of the lentil: sweet and vegetal. The seasoning is a little bit Turkish, with lemon, cumin, cilantro, dill and yogurt. It is delicious served at room temperature or warm. The loaf is easier to cut if cooled, with slices heated through in the oven. Even better is to griddle the slices with a little oil in a nonstick or cast-iron pan until crisp and golden on both sides. |
| One-Pot Deluxe - The New York Times Posted: 23 Oct 2020 12:00 AM PDT  Hello and welcome to Five Weeknight Dishes. A few weeks ago, I got a great email from a reader in Los Angeles who said that she's been leaning into sheet-pan dinners in this stressy time, meals that "feel deluxe but are secretly super easy": gnocchi roasted with squash; Santa Maria tri-tip with potatoes and broccoli cooked in the pan drippings; creamy burrata with burst cherry tomatoes on crusty bread. (Can I come over?) But the best part of the letter was this description of sitting down to eat this shrimp dish she made for her partner: "What a WIN to see his eyes light up and his shoulders relax. For a minute, we were just two regular people, in a regular world." I am verklempt. You can email me too! I'm dearemily@nytimes.com, and I read every letter. [Sign up here to receive the Five Weeknight Dishes newsletter in your inbox every Friday.] Here are five dishes for the week: Image  1. Roasted Sausages With Grapes and Onions Speaking of deluxe but super easy: I made this sheet-pan recipe by Melissa Clark for dinner last night using fat links of sweet Italian sausage from the butcher shop, and everyone loved it, including a 3-year-old. A few tablespoons of vinegar and the drippings from the sausage keep the red grapes from being too sweet. View this recipe. _____ 3. Weeknight Fancy Chicken and Rice This one goes out to the reader who emailed to say that we publish too many chicken thigh recipes, and requested chicken breasts. (It's true that recipe developers love chicken thighs.) This delicious version of a pulao, or pilaf, from the chef Asha Gomez, is one of the best ways I know to use boneless, skinless breasts. The meat turns out plush, the rice gently spiced and with a glorious hue. 4. Gochujang-Glazed Eggplant With Fried Scallions Inspired by gaji bokkeum, a Korean stir-fried eggplant dish, this brilliant recipe by Eric Kim is salty, hot, sweet and heaven with rice and something green for dinner. Put the rice on the stove not long after you salt the eggplant, and they should be done at more or less the same time; once the eggplant is ready to cook, everything moves quickly. View this recipe. _____ |
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