What to Cook This Weekend - The New York Times
What to Cook This Weekend - The New York Times |
- What to Cook This Weekend - The New York Times
- Dorie Greenspan’s Amazing New Cookie - The New York Times
- Weary of Cooking? This Simple Dinner Will Invigorate - The New York Times
| What to Cook This Weekend - The New York Times Posted: 20 Nov 2020 12:00 AM PST  Good morning. This is the final weekend before next week's run-up to Thanksgiving, a holiday feast that some of us, even our best kitchen sharpies, may be cooking for the very first time. Because maybe you've done the turkey and the sides in the past, but never the pies. Maybe the pies but never the bird. Maybe you've cooked only the sides. Maybe only one side. (My friend Ricky has brought mashed potatoes to our Thanksgiving for more than 20 years. He wrote me the other day to say it's about all he has on his menu for now: a bowl of it and some spoons for the kids.) And what about gravy? What about cranberry sauce? Even if you're cooking only for those in your immediate family, the full Thanksgiving spread is hard work that benefits from helping hands. This year, those hands must help just themselves, in the midst of the pandemic. Our sacrifice will ensure crowded tables in years to come. It's best to get started this weekend. We've got dozens of recipes for Thanksgiving dishes that you can make ahead. And you can absolutely lay in the supplies for what you'll need in the week to come: the turkey, if that's what you're cooking; the flours and fats and wines and squashes and fruit for the pies. Shop and organize on Saturday and Sunday, turn to our menu planner, and maybe the idea of this strange, collaborative feast will turn into something hopeful for you, despite how different it will be from Thanksgivings past. But don't cook just for Thanksgiving this weekend. Cook for yourself, in the spirit of the season. For instance, I love the looks of these cider-braised chicken thighs with apples and greens (above), though I might heed one of the notes a reader left on the recipe and try it with shaved red cabbage in place of the greens. Or maybe this bo kho, the Vietnamese braised beef stew? This cauliflower gratin with leeks and white Cheddar? A carrot cake? A skillet caramel apple crisp? Absolutely, for lunch on Sunday, this kale and brussels sprouts salad with pear and halloumi. Thousands and thousands more recipes to cook in the next few days and weeks are waiting for you on NYT Cooking. Go see what you find. Then save the recipes you want to cook and rate the ones you've made. Please leave notes on them, too, if you want to remind yourself of a hack or substitution, or to broadcast your findings to your fellow subscribers. Yes, you need to be a subscriber. Subscriptions support our entire enterprise. They allow it to continue. I hope, if you haven't already, that you will subscribe to NYT Cooking today. And please ask us for help if something goes wrong along the way, either in your kitchen or on our site and apps. We're at cookingcare@nytimes.com. We will get back to you, I promise. (You can reach me at foodeditor@nytimes.com. I read every letter sent.) Now, would you please check out Tejal Rao's latest in The Times, a column about the Appalachian tradition of salt-rising bread, loaves made with fermentation but no yeast, a fickle method that delivers rewards when it wants to. Of course there's a recipe, tested and tested and tested again. Still, your mileage may vary. |
| Dorie Greenspan’s Amazing New Cookie - The New York Times Posted: 30 Nov 2020 07:30 AM PST  Good morning. Dorie Greenspan introduced me to the mystery novelist Louise Penny this weekend, in a delightful column in The New York Times Magazine that begins in Penny's fictional Three Pines, a village in Quebec "with a good boulangerie; a bookstore that smells like tea and flowers; a bistro with an excellent chef; and a community of fascinating eccentrics." Penny's hero, Chief Inspector Armand Gamache of the Surêté du Québec, appears to be one of those brilliant, gentle investigators in the vein of Martin Walker's Benoît Courrèges, locally known as Bruno, Chief of Police. And, as with Bruno, food plays a big role in his life. I ordered "Still Life," the first of the Gamache series as soon as I finished Dorie's piece. Dorie has fallen so hard for these books, she wrote, that she wanted to make her imaginary friend Gamache a dessert. He enjoys lemon meringue pie, so she came up with an adjacent cookie: a shortbread vanilla sablé, topped first with lemon curd and then with shards of crunchy meringue. The recipe (above) that accompanies the column is a joy. As Dorie writes, it "tips French but shrugs at tradition." I like that very much. I also like, on these chilly days when I'm working from home, to use the slow cooker more often than I used to, before the pandemic. So maybe this slow cooker salsa verde chicken for dinner some night this week? Or these slow cooker pork tacos with hoisin and ginger, or this slow cooker butter chicken? And I really, truly love Christina Tosi's slow cooker cake. If you prefer high heat and fast hands, try Julia Moskin's cast-iron steak. (I like that with creamed spinach sauce and hash browns: full steakhouse vibes.) Or J. Kenji López-Alt's moo shu mushrooms. Sesame-coated sautéed chicken breasts? You could definitely give this crispy fried tofu sandwich a try. Thousands and thousands more recipes are waiting for you on NYT Cooking. Go browse among them as if you were searching for gifts on Etsy. Save the recipes you want to cook. Rate the ones you've made. And you can leave notes on them, as well, if you'd like to remember something about how you cooked the dish or want to tell your fellow subscribers about it. Yes, you need a subscription to the site and apps to do all that. Subscriptions support our work and allow it to continue. If you haven't done so already, I hope you will subscribe to NYT Cooking today. And if you get jammed up along the way, either in your kitchen or on our site and apps, please write for help. We are at cookingcare@nytimes.com, and someone will get back to you. (You can escalate matters by writing me at foodeditor@nytimes.com. I read every letter sent.) Now, here's a development that may bring some cheer this holiday season: We've unveiled a NYT Cooking collection at The New York Times Store. (I like Katie Kimmel's Generously Buttered Noodles sweatshirt, myself.) It's nothing to do with allspice or salmon, but you should read Carroll Bogert and Lynnell Hancock on the media myth of the superpredator, in The Marshall Project. |
| Weary of Cooking? This Simple Dinner Will Invigorate - The New York Times Posted: 25 Nov 2020 09:36 AM PST  I'm getting tired of reading the news anxiously each morning, tired of bad behavior everywhere, tired of witnessing fear and loathing and oppression, tired of politics. It's a rough time. But, though some days I want very simple food, I'm not tired of cooking. I'm also not tired of going to the farmers' market, or of spending time in kitchen. I don't tire of cooking pasta, warming garlic in olive oil or making toast. I still get excited when a bite of food tastes inordinately good. I still want to make a salad and put on a pot of beans. And there's still comfort in watching the seasons change. I do understand the concept of kitchen burnout, more so with the doubled-up stress of the pandemic and the holidays, but the act of cooking and the ritual of sharing food can be relaxing, grounding and positive. Think of this menu as a fun one to cook, maybe in a week or so. It's easy enough to prepare for a special weeknight, though, of course, each of the dishes can stand alone, too. Image  There was beautiful fennel at one farmer's stand the other day. Now is the time for it. It does well in cool temperate zones, growing slowly, feathery fronds swaying. Chilly weather accentuates the fennel's sweetness and anise perfume. Cutting into the bulb reveals its crisp, pale celadon center. Thinly sliced, it makes a most refreshing salad. Fennel dressed with anchovy, lemon juice, green olives and fruity olive oil is a combination I'll never tire of. Don't be afraid of the anchovy; rinsing and blotting the fillets tames the harshness. If you happen to have a preserved lemon or two on hand, a bit of the salty chopped rind adds depth. This makes a zesty, welcoming first course — or a fine salad to eat for lunch. Dress it just before serving, so the sliced fennel stays crisp. It may seem silly to smash and pit your own green olives, but the shape looks better and they taste meatier that way. (In any case, please, don't cut pitted olives crosswise into little round slices.) The fish man had haddock, cod and hake for sale (I went for the cod) and shiny black mussels from Prince Edward Island. I thought they should marry. The fish could marinate in a mixture of cilantro, cumin and coriander, a clever Moroccan custom. Steamed together, the mussels would contribute their briny juices to the broth. Enhanced with a dab of spicy harissa, the resulting stew, served in big bowls, was deeply flavorful. Was it tiresome? Not at all — it was dreamy. You may not want a real dessert after this meal. I'd be happy with a bowl of tangerines and a juicy pomegranate, or a scoop of ice cream, but why resist an olive oil walnut cake, just a little slice? You can absolutely bake the cake in advance. It actually keeps well for several days, and seems to improve with age, in fact. Your choice: elegant dessert or perfect breakfast. Extra-virgin olive oil gives the cake richness and a tender crumb. There's also an orange syrup to drench it with, best done on the day it's served. A spoonful of crème fraîche or yogurt and a topping of bright red pomegranate seeds make the cake a festive sight. So, no, I'm not tired of cooking. In truth, somehow, preparing a good meal — or one good dish — is invigorating. Recipes: Fennel Salad With Anchovy and Olives | Cod and Mussel Stew With Harissa | Olive Oil-Walnut Cake With Pomegranate |
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