What to Cook This Weekend - The New York Times

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What to Cook This Weekend - The New York Times Posted: 18 Jun 2021 12:00 AM PDT Good morning. I took to The New York Times Magazine this week to write about a remarkable 20th century restaurateur named Henri Charpentier, who was raised in the kitchens and dining rooms of the French Riviera, labored under Auguste Escoffier and César Ritz in Paris, and moved to New York in the early 20th century, where he opened his restaurant Henri's, in Lynbrook. One of the dishes Charpentier served there showed up in a cookbook my friend Julie found in a used bookstore in the Midwest a few years ago: fluke au gratin (above). It's a remarkable, elegant dish, and a simple preparation appropriate to any firm, mild white-fleshed fish. Make a buttery sauce with chopped shallots, garlic, chives, parsley and mushrooms, and brighten it with lemon juice and white wine. Spoon some of it into a shallow roasting pan, place your fillets on top, then add the rest of the sauce, some bread crumbs and dots of butter. Roast it for a few minutes until the fish has just cooked through. Serve with rice and asparagus, maybe? It'd be a lovely meal on Saturday night. Charpentier was a raconteur (his memoir "Life à la Henri" reads a bit like a first draft of "A Gentleman of Moscow"), and he long insisted that he invented the dessert crêpes Suzette at 16, while serving a dinner for the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VIII. In his telling, a beautiful French girl named Suzette was there. While making tableside crepes for dessert, he accidentally flamed them with brandy, but passed it off as intentional. The prince thought the dish tasted superb. Charpentier offered to name it in his honor. But the prince told him, "We must always remember that the ladies come first. We will call this glorious thing crêpes Suzette." Historians quibble with this story. But maybe you could make the crepes for dessert all the same. Other things to cook this weekend: recipes to celebrate Juneteenth on Saturday; recipes to celebrate Father's Day on Sunday. Now, it's nothing to do with fancy salts or cast iron pans, but I think you will enjoy this excerpt from the photographer Kristin Bedford's new book "Cruise Night," about modern lowrider culture in Los Angeles, in Los Angeles Magazine. And you ought to check out "Midnight Diner: Tokyo Stories," on Netflix. If you're in New York or planning a visit soon, do leave time for the Alice Neel show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Finally, new music to play us off: Clairo, "Blouse," featured in the latest Playlist of new songs, in The Times. I will, as always, see you on Sunday.

What to Cook Right Now - The New York Times Posted: 21 Sep 2020 12:00 AM PDT Good morning. Tuesday is the autumnal equinox, the sun right above the Equator, the length of day and night the same, a marker of harvest season, the first day of fall. (Confidential to those in Australia and New Zealand: Happy vernal equinox!) I'll mourn our lost summer with its mask-fogged sunglasses, its distanced yard hangs and awkward picnics, but revel in the cool nights and the promise of dinners rich with gravy. It's smothered chicken time, the start of the season for pork chops in lemon-caper sauce (above), for smothered shrimp in crab meat gravy, for chicken-fried steak with queso, for meals you can accompany with dinner rolls for swiping, for apple pie and apple cake alike. But maybe that's just me? Maybe you'd prefer a sweet potato bebinca, or chicken ragù with fennel. Egg curry? Mushroom soup gratinée? Here's what's on the NYT Cooking fall cooking bucket list. It'd be nice to make a lasagna this week. Not to mention oven-fried patatas bravas, with two sauces! The idea's just to cook against the loss of summer, loss of daylight, loss of outdoor freedoms, and replace it all with deliciousness and joy, with protein to nourish us as the mercury drops and winter stalks closer. So: Make delicious food this week; light where you eat with candles or hurricane lanterns; set the table with care. The idea is just to embrace the cozy, as the writer Isabel Gillies would say, to use cozy as a baseline that helps support your life and the lives of those with whom you live. Tomato soup is cozy. So is slow cooker beef stew with maple and stout. Fettuccine Alfredo is cozy. Oven-roasted chicken shawarma is really cozy. Many thousands more recipes like that are waiting for you on NYT Cooking. Browse the site and our collections to see what grabs your fancy. And if you hit what we call a pay wall, a call to subscribe, it's because you need a subscription to access the full breadth of our recipes and features. Subscriptions are what allow us to do this work. I hope, if you haven't gotten one already, that you will subscribe today. Thank you. And as always, we will be standing by to help if you run into trouble in the kitchen or with our site and apps. Just write: cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back to you, I promise. Now, won't you see what you think of this Ruth Reichl essay for AARP about what she's learned over the course of a half century of writing about food. In a similar vein, I enjoyed this Journalism History podcast about the pioneering New York Times food editor Jane Nickerson, whose work leads directly to what you read in our pages today, and across NYT Cooking.

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