London Restaurant Recommendations for the Weekend
Recipe: Smoked Trout Mousse On A Homemade Cracker
Recipe: Smoked trout mousse on a homemade cracker
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Spring is here, and summer is fast approaching, which means spending more time outside. If you're looking for the perfect appetizer to enjoy on the deck, maybe with a glass of wine, then Chef Peter Rudolph has you covered.
Rudolph joined us in the 207 kitchen from the Cape Arundel Inn and showed us how to make a Smoked Trout Mousse with homemade Flaxseed Crackers.
Seeded Crackers
Ingredients:
Directions:
Smoked Trout Mousse
Ingredients:
Directions:
Plating
Select the perfect pieces of flax cracker, 1-2 bite sizes, 1"-2" squares or rectangles or triangles, no need to be perfectly uniform for your first attempt. Add an adequate spoonful of the mousse onto the cracker and top with a generous amount of the herb garnish.
Nigel Slater's Recipes For Spring Greens, And Smoked Trout With Fennel And Onions
Change is in the air. The long table at the greengrocer's – a scene of never-ending inspiration – has swapped its warm ochre and crimson tones for a leafy fizz of green. Sprouting broccoli, spring greens and early wild garlic have replaced the beetroot, parsnips and swedes. There are pale curling fronds of frisée and plump bunches of breakfast radishes – shopping once again has a spring in its step.
I have enjoyed this good, long winter with its slow-cooked bean stews and sugar-dusted baking days, but have also been longing for the first days of spring. I want nothing more than to snap crisp stalks and tear up green leaves, tossing them in a pan with a punch of ginger and chilli and a spritz of lime. I want to shred pale, crackling salad and toss it with citrus and green herbs and dress it with tart little pickles. And now I can.
I made a refreshing lunch this week of trout fillets with shredded fennel and cucumber tossed with homemade pickled onions. I could easily have used smoked mackerel – exceptionally good with fennel – but the trout has more subtle smoky notes and feels more at home with the bright citrus and lightly vinegared fennel I wanted to dress it with.
Later in the week, I came home with a bundle of spring greens. Their leaves less earthy and bitter than the dark-fleshed Savoy and cavolo nero I have been eating all winter. Their stalks sweet enough to munch raw. Shredded, seasoned and stir-fried, they were on the table within minutes of getting home.
Spring greens, beanshoots and limeCrunchy with roasted peanuts and bright with lime juice, this is a recipe that can be almost endlessly adapted to suit what greens are in season. I made a version with gai lan the other day, and used roasted cashews in place of the peanuts. There is a little prep to do – crushing garlic and chopping spring onions and ginger, shredding spring greens and washing beanshoots – but the cooking is all done in a minute or two. You could veganise the recipe by using a vegan substitute for the fish sauce. Serves 2
garlic 3 clovesspring onions 2fresh ginger 50g piecehot red chillies 2beanshoots 100gsprouted mung beans 100groasted peanuts 4 tbspspring greens 250ggroundnut or vegetable oil 3 tbsp, plus a little extrafish sauce 2 tbspcaster sugar 2 tsplime juice 3 tbspThai basil leaves a handfulcoriander leaves a handful
Peel the garlic and mash to a paste. I do this in a pestle and mortar with a pinch of sea salt. Discard the root and the very dark green tips of the spring onions, then finely slice. Peel and thinly shred the ginger into matchsticks. Finely chop the red chillies. Wash the beanshoots and sprouted mung beans and shake them dry in a salad spinner or colander. Roughly chop the peanuts.
Wash the spring greens. Lay the leaves on top of one another and roll up tightly. Then slice into finger-thick strips, like pappardelle.
Heat the oil in a wok. When it is hot, add the garlic, spring onions and ginger, and fry, moving them quickly round the pan for a minute or two, then add the chillies. Fry for another minute or so, until very lightly coloured, then remove everything from the pan with a draining spoon or spider.
Add a little more oil to the pan and, when it is hot, add the beanshoots and mung beans quickly followed by the shredded greens. Add the peanuts, fish sauce and caster sugar, then return the aromatics to the pan. Keep everything moving around the pan, stirring and frying, then finish with the lime juice and Thai basil and, if you wish, coriander leaves.
Smoked trout, fennel and sweet-sour onions 'Refreshing lunch': smoked trout, fennel and sweet-sour onions. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin/The ObserverA crunchy, bright-tasting salad to start the season. I learned the trick of speeding up the pickled onions from Mark Diacono – rub the onions and salt together as if you are warming your hands. It works. Serves 2
red onion 1, largesalt 1 tbspcider vinegar 50mlwhole black peppercorns 6white peppercorns 1 tspcaster sugar 1 tsp
For the saladfennel bulb 350golive oil 4 tbspcucumber half (250g)smoked trout fillets 350gpink grapefruit 1orange 1sprouted seeds 50g
Peel the onion, cut into pencil-thick slices, then separate into rings. Toss the rings of onion with the salt, rubbing it all over the onions with your hands, then set aside for an hour. Rinse the salt from the onion rings in a sieve, then put them in a wide-mouthed jar, pour in the vinegar, add the peppercorns and sugar, then screw on the lid and shake gently until the sugar has dissolved. Set aside for a good hour before using.
Cut the fennel in half from root to tip, then cut into thin slices, no thicker than a £1 coin. Mix together 2 tbsp of the cider vinegar from the onions, 4 tbsp of olive oil, a pinch of salt and a little ground black pepper. Pour the dressing over the fennel and set aside.
Peel the cucumber, halve it lengthways and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. Cut into 2.5cm-thick slices, then toss with the fennel and its dressing.
Break the trout fillets into short pieces, then toss with the salad and the onions, drained of their juice. Peel the grapefruit and orange with a sharp knife, then cut into segments and add to the fennel. Add the sprouted seeds to the salad.
Follow Nigel on Instagram @NigelSlater
Recipe: Scramble Eggs For Easter Brunch Tartines With Asparagus And Smoked Trout
© Sally Pasley Vargas Scrambled Egg Tartines with Asparagus and Smoked TroutServes 4
Egg sandwiches just got a whole lot more sophisticated with these tartines, the favorite French open-faced sandwich, sometimes presented as baguettes with butter and jam or with heartier bread covered with savory bites such as mushrooms, cheese, or charcuterie. Here, toasted sourdough is topped with soft-scrambled eggs, asparagus, and smoked trout for an elegant Easter lunch or brunch. The trick is to treat the eggs with great care and take your time. Keep whisking them gently in a skillet of butter, using small circles over medium heat; do a little dance with the pan, taking it on and off the heat. Gradually incorporate the cooked eggs on the bottom of the pan into the runny eggs on top until the entire skillet forms small, soft curds. Don't wait till they're done to pull them off the burner. At that point, they should be just a little less cooked than you prefer since they continue to cook in the residual heat of the pan. Arrange toasts on plates, add lightly cooked asparagus, and a drizzle of sour cream-horseradish sauce. Spoon on the eggs and finish with flaked smoked trout and snipped chives.
6 ounces smoked trout ½ cup sour cream or creme fraiche 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 teaspoons bottled white horseradish, drained, or more to taste 3 tablespoons freshly snipped chives Salt and pepper, to taste 1 pound asparagus, ends snapped off 4 large slices sourdough bread 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 8 eggs1. Set the oven at 200 degrees. Have on hand a deep 10-inch skillet and a whisk.
2. With a fork, flake the trout, discarding the skin and any bones; set aside.
3. In a small bowl, stir together the sour creme or creme fraiche, lemon juice, horseradish, 1 tablespoon of the chives, and a pinch of salt.
4. In the skillet, bring 1 inch of salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus and cook for 3 minutes, or until they are tender when pierced with the tip of a paring knife, but still bright green. With tongs, transfer them to a plate, sprinkle lightly with salt, and cover loosely with foil to keep warm. Rinse out the skillet.
5. In a toaster or under the broiler, toast the bread on both sides, or until lightly golden. Spread with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Set a piece of toast on each of 4 plates. Transfer the plates with the toast to the oven while you cook the eggs.
6. In a bowl, whisk the eggs with a pinch each of salt and pepper.
7. In the skillet over medium heat, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Pour in the eggs and begin stirring with a whisk in tiny circles all around the bottom of the pan. Do not stop stirring. Move the pan off and on the burner as you cook to keep the eggs from cooking too fast and drying out. The eggs will begin to thicken fairly quickly and then mysteriously thin out. Don't panic; they will thicken again. As soon as the eggs on the bottom of the pan begin to cook faster than you can stir them into the uncooked eggs, move the pan off the heat and keep stirring in tiny circles so the cooked part on the bottom is constantly being incorporated into the uncooked part. When the eggs are almost entirely small, soft curds, but still a little squishy, take the pan off the heat. Let it sit for a minute.
8. Remove the plates from the oven. Top each piece of toast with 4 to 5 asparagus spears. Drizzle with horseradish cream and spoon 1/4 of the eggs over the asparagus. Arrange the trout on top and sprinkle with chives and pepper. Serve with the remaining sauce.
Sally Pasley Vargas
Serves 4
Egg sandwiches just got a whole lot more sophisticated with these tartines, the favorite French open-faced sandwich, sometimes presented as baguettes with butter and jam or with heartier bread covered with savory bites such as mushrooms, cheese, or charcuterie. Here, toasted sourdough is topped with soft-scrambled eggs, asparagus, and smoked trout for an elegant Easter lunch or brunch. The trick is to treat the eggs with great care and take your time. Keep whisking them gently in a skillet of butter, using small circles over medium heat; do a little dance with the pan, taking it on and off the heat. Gradually incorporate the cooked eggs on the bottom of the pan into the runny eggs on top until the entire skillet forms small, soft curds. Don't wait till they're done to pull them off the burner. At that point, they should be just a little less cooked than you prefer since they continue to cook in the residual heat of the pan. Arrange toasts on plates, add lightly cooked asparagus, and a drizzle of sour cream-horseradish sauce. Spoon on the eggs and finish with flaked smoked trout and snipped chives.
6 ounces smoked trout ½ cup sour cream or creme fraiche 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 teaspoons bottled white horseradish, drained, or more to taste 3 tablespoons freshly snipped chives Salt and pepper, to taste 1 pound asparagus, ends snapped off 4 large slices sourdough bread 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 8 eggs1. Set the oven at 200 degrees. Have on hand a deep 10-inch skillet and a whisk.
2. With a fork, flake the trout, discarding the skin and any bones; set aside.
3. In a small bowl, stir together the sour creme or creme fraiche, lemon juice, horseradish, 1 tablespoon of the chives, and a pinch of salt.
4. In the skillet, bring 1 inch of salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus and cook for 3 minutes, or until they are tender when pierced with the tip of a paring knife, but still bright green. With tongs, transfer them to a plate, sprinkle lightly with salt, and cover loosely with foil to keep warm. Rinse out the skillet.
5. In a toaster or under the broiler, toast the bread on both sides, or until lightly golden. Spread with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Set a piece of toast on each of 4 plates. Transfer the plates with the toast to the oven while you cook the eggs.
6. In a bowl, whisk the eggs with a pinch each of salt and pepper.
7. In the skillet over medium heat, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Pour in the eggs and begin stirring with a whisk in tiny circles all around the bottom of the pan. Do not stop stirring. Move the pan off and on the burner as you cook to keep the eggs from cooking too fast and drying out. The eggs will begin to thicken fairly quickly and then mysteriously thin out. Don't panic; they will thicken again. As soon as the eggs on the bottom of the pan begin to cook faster than you can stir them into the uncooked eggs, move the pan off the heat and keep stirring in tiny circles so the cooked part on the bottom is constantly being incorporated into the uncooked part. When the eggs are almost entirely small, soft curds, but still a little squishy, take the pan off the heat. Let it sit for a minute.
8. Remove the plates from the oven. Top each piece of toast with 4 to 5 asparagus spears. Drizzle with horseradish cream and spoon 1/4 of the eggs over the asparagus. Arrange the trout on top and sprinkle with chives and pepper. Serve with the remaining sauce.Sally Pasley Vargas
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