Recipes from Around the *World*
You Can't Judge A Celery Root By Its Looks
Enlarge this image T. Susan Chang for NPR T. Susan Chang for NPRGet recipes for Celery Root And Potato Latkes, Truffled Celery Root Mash, and Celeriac And Lentils With Hazelnut And Mint.
Imagine how celery root feels at the vegetable beauty pageant. Everyone's falling over the tomato, that smug beauty queen. The cameras love elegant long carrots and parsnips, and the radishes blush in the spotlight. People coo over the potatoes even though they're not much to look at, because they're in it for the fries.
But homely celery root hovers by the concessions table with big, unremarkable rutabaga and antennaed kohlrabi.
The fact is, celery root devastatingly combines the unfamiliar with the unprepossessing — all gnarly tendrils and clod-like form. But the celery root has a big, fabulous secret, and that is its taste.
Sponsor MessageDespite its name, celery root is not the root of the crisp, linear celery stalk once so sanctified by dieters. (Calling it "celeriac" circumvents this confusion, but I think it makes it sound like a medical condition.) It is a roughshod cousin whose flavor resembles that of the puritan stalk that graces countless crudite platters — but only a little. The celery flavor of celery root is a luscious, creamy, heaven-can-wait kind of celery flavor with no strings attached.
T. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for The Boston Globe, NPR.Org and the cookbook-indexing website Eat Your Books. She's the author of A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table and has just released the CookShelf cookbook-rating app, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, Cookbooks for Dinner.
To unlock the flavor, though, you must first approach the monster and disassemble it. Take your courage in both hands, along with a good serrated knife — a sturdy bread knife does wonders. Ruthlessly saw off the gnarly roots and whiskered patches, repeating to yourself as often as is necessary, Steady on, it's only a plant. You can stop just as soon as you've gone past the skin, no matter how odd-shaped your remainder. If you find yourself with something that looks like a cue ball, chances are you've gone too far.
There are those who enjoy raw celery root, and if you are one of them I congratulate you. Once you've done away with all the hairy protuberances and reduced the celery root to an irregular, ivory polyhedron, you have only to shave off or julienne some fine slices and you're practically done. A dollop of grainy mustard vinaigrette along with maybe some crisp, complementary apple and you have one of those brittle but elegant, nutritionally virtuous "winter salads."
Not being a great one for virtue, I most enjoy celery root warm, its sweetness and subtle nuttiness coaxed out and cosseted with luxurious starch. Cooked celery root has a buttery, earthy quality that's not unlike Jerusalem artichokes (or artichoke heart itself, for that matter). It pairs beautifully with russet potatoes in almost any form, whether grated and transformed into surprising latkes, or sweet-talked into a silky mash.
I'm willing to bet it won't be long before you come to adore the homely celery root for its inner beauty. It takes a quiet turn at stardom at those sprawling, hours-long holiday spreads, where scraping sounds at the bottom of the bowl are a testament to its appeal. And afterward — as satiated selves are lowered onto sofas, ties are loosened, and buttons are popped — well, I think we can all agree that appearances are seriously overrated.
Celery Root And Potato LatkesThese are adapted from the terrific Gourmet Today (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2009). I usually start grating them by hand as the recipe suggests, and then get fed up and pull out the Cuisinart. It works either way. But the authors point out that the machine makes longer shreds than the grater, so you need a little more egg for binding. I usually run my kitchen scissors through the machine-grated mass of shreds a few times to shorten them, which seems to help.
Enlarge this image T. Susan Chang for NPR T. Susan Chang for NPRMakes 4 servings
1 (1 1/2-pound) celery root, peeled with a knife
1 1/2 pounds russet (baking) potatoes (about 3 large)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 pound onions, quartered
2/3 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 3/4 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground celery seed
About 1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
Put racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat oven to 250 degrees. Set a wire rack on each of two baking sheets.
Using the wide holes of a box grater, coarsely grate celery root into a bowl. Peel potatoes and coarsely grate into another large bowl. Add lemon juice and toss. Coarsely grate onions into same bowl as potatoes. Transfer to a kitchen towel (not terry cloth), gather up corners to form a sack, and twist tightly to wring out as much liquid as possible. Return potatoes and onions to cleaned bowl and stir in celery root, flour, eggs, salt, pepper and celery seed until well combined.
Sponsor MessageHeat 1/3 inch oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Fill a 1/4-cup measure with latke mixture (not tightly packed), carefully spoon it into skillet, and flatten to 3 inches in diameter with a slotted spatula. Form 3 more latkes and fry until undersides are deep golden, 1 1/2 to 3 minutes. Turn over using 2 spatulas and fry until deep golden on second side, 1 1/2 to 3 minutes more. (If latkes brown too quickly, lower heat to moderate.) Transfer to paper towels to drain briefly, then arrange (in a single layer) on rack on one baking sheet and keep warm in oven. Make more latkes in same manner, using second baking sheet for last batches.
Truffled Celery Root Mash Enlarge this image T. Susan Chang for NPR T. Susan Chang for NPRThis is one of the most comforting ways I know to eat celery root. You can simply mash it with a regular potato masher, but for the silken puree that is one of celery root's side benefits, the food processor is the way to go.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
4 medium russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
1 large or 2 small celery roots, trimmed, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
1/2 cup heavy cream or sour cream
About a teaspoon of white or black truffle oil, to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
Chopped chives (optional)
Place the potato chunks in a large pot with enough generously salted cold water to cover the potatoes with 3 inches to spare. Bring to a boil. Add the celery root chunks and simmer together until the vegetables are all quite tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain into a colander placed over a serving bowl large enough to accommodate the mash (so the boiling water warms up the serving bowl).
If using heavy cream, microwave or heat in a small saucepan until just hot.
In a food processor, purée the potatoes and celery roots together until you achieve a smooth puree; you'll need to do it in 2 batches. When the first batch is finished, turn it into the warmed serving bowl. While puréeing the second batch, add in the hot cream or sour cream. Add the truffle oil to taste and turn the second batch into the warmed serving bowl, folding it into the first. Adjust the seasoning, sprinkle with chives, if using, and serve immediately.
Sponsor Message Enlarge this image T. Susan Chang for NPR T. Susan Chang for NPR Celeriac And Lentils With Hazelnut And MintThis surprising side is adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi's Plenty (Chronicle Books, 2011). Londoner that he is, Ottolenghi advises you to cut the celeriac into "chips." That's British for "fries" so don't break out the mandoline. Judging by the picture, I cut them into about 3/8-by-3/8-by-2-inch batons, and they came out just about perfect.
Makes 4 servings
1/3 cup whole hazelnuts (skin on)
1 cup Puy lentils
3 cups water
2 bay leaves
4 thyme sprigs
1 small celeriac (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into 3/8-inch "fries"
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons hazelnut oil
3 tablespoons good-quality red wine vinegar
Salt and black pepper
4 tablespoons chopped mint
Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Scatter the hazelnuts on a small baking sheet and roast in the oven for 15 minutes. Let them cool down then chop roughly. Combine the lentils, water, bay leaves and thyme in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, or until al dente. Drain in a sieve.
Meanwhile, in a separate saucepan, cook the celeriac in plenty of boiling salted water for 8 to 12 minutes, or until just tender. Drain.
In a large bowl mix the hot lentils (if they have cooled down they won't soak up all the flavors) with the olive oil, 2 tablespoons of the hazelnut oil, the vinegar, plenty of salt and some black pepper. Add the celeriac and stir well. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
To serve right away, stir in half the mint and half the hazelnuts. Pile onto a serving dish or in a bowl and drizzle the remaining hazelnut oil on top. Garnish with the rest of the mint and hazelnuts.
To serve cold, wait for the lentils and celeriac to cool down, then adjust the seasoning or add some more vinegar, if you like. Add hazelnut oil, mint and nuts in the same way as when serving hot.
What Is Celery Root And Is It Good For You?
Autumn means the markets are bursting with winter squash and root vegetables that last long, hold up nicely to strong flavors, and are super versatile in an array of comforting dishes. But alongside the parsnips and cabbage of the season is an other-worldly-looking vegetable that's equally as delicious and deserves your culinary attention. We chatted with experts to explain what celery root is, if celery root is good for you, and how to use celery root so you can make the most out of this amazing cold-weather vegetable.
What is celery root?Let's get this out of the way first: is celery root actually the root of celery? Not exactly.
"Aside from being one of my favorite veggies ever, celery root is a cousin of the celery we all know and love," explains Alison Cayne, founder and CEO of Haven's Kitchen, a former event space for culinary classes that now sells globally-inspired sauces. "Rather than cultivated for the stalk, it's grown for the bulbous root."
So, celery root is related to the green stalks we snack on, but aren't quite the same. In fact, the celery plant we grow for the stalk has a very little root we don't typically eat and the celery plant we grow for the root has some very small stalks we also don't usually eat, explains Juliet Glass, director of communications at FRESHFARM, a non-profit that operates producer-only farmers' markets in the Mid-Atlantic region.
This root vegetable is typically round, with knobby features, and is a light, tan color, says Lee Jones, a farmer behind The Chef's Garden. They're not the most attractive vegetable, adds Glass, and often words like gnarly, knobby, furry, and hairy are used to describe the exterior. Though it can be off putting and a bit of work to clean, Glass says it's worth the effort.
It's most commonly called celery root, but it may also be listed as celeriac, turnip-rooted celery, and knob celery, Jones notes. The flavor is very mild, slightly sweet and nutty, and doesn't have any bitterness, says Debra Moser, co-founder of Central Farm Markets in Washington D.C.
Though you may find celery root at your local farmers market or specialty store, it's not as common in suburban supermarkets, says Brian Contreras, chef and Miraval Resorts and Spas' director of culinary experiences. But, there is the possibility you'd see it near the other root vegetables like rutabagas and turnips, he notes, just be sure you know what you're looking for.
And if you are lucky enough to spot it, the best time to snag some is in the fall through spring, starting in October and ending in April, says Jones. Just be sure to look for a firmer, heavier celery root without any soft spots, he says.
Celery root nutritionAbout one cup of celery root contains:
"It's very nutritious and provides fiber, vitamin C, potassium, and manganese," says Catherine Perez, M.S., R.D., registered dietitian and owner of Plant-Based R.D. Blog. "It is also an excellent source of vitamin K and antioxidants."
The high vitamin K is a stand-out nutrient to Perez, and she notes it provides extra support to strengthen bones and can even help reduce the risk of cancer. Additionally, celery root is also a great, lower-carb swap and low-glycemic index option for those looking to cut down on their carbohydrates. "Making mindful swaps, like celery root for potato, is a great way to be creative and inspire balance in your ingredient choices," adds Contreras.
Celery root usesThough it can look a little intimidating, celery root is super versatile and can be a delicious addition to your fall and winter cooking, Contreras says. He notes there are wrinkles on the skin that can take in dirt, so you can choose to peel the celery root. But, many people like to keep the skin on and just give it a good scrub to ensure you're getting all the nutrients you'd otherwise lose, he says. Be sure to ask your farmer how they like to cook it, Moser suggests, but give these expert-approved ideas a try in the meantime:
And if you aren't getting to cook your celery root as soon as you bring it home, Jones suggests storing it in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator or in a plastic bag in the fridge. Don't wash it until you're ready to use it, and it can last about three weeks, he says.
Related StoryCelery Root Isn't Pretty, But It's Pretty Tasty
It wasn't until I lived in France that I fully appreciated how underused celeriac — also called celery root — is here in the U.S.
In France, this knobby root cousin of the celery we are more familiar with is used in soups, as a purée, raw in salads, as well as in a typical French slaw-like dish called "celeri remoulade."
Celery root imparts a celery-like flavor that softens when cooked. In purées (peel, cube, boil and mash), try pairing it with other tubers, such as a potato or yam, to balance out the celery flavor. Raw celeriac works best when thinly sliced, julienned or grated.
In the produce aisle, look for a bumpy globe about the size of a large softball. Sometimes the flavorful (but fibrous) stalks are attached. They can be cut off and used as an aromatic, primarily for building flavor in broths or braising liquids.
Celery root is a good source of filling fiber and vitamin C, but the big nutritional selling point is the amount of vitamin K packed into this little veggie, with just one serving giving us about half our daily requirement. Vitamin K gets woefully little air time, but it plays an important role in blood and bone health. And don't forget the very basic benefit of trying new things, which keeps eaters engaged and meals interesting.
In my celery root and chipotle remoulade slaw, I've added some smoky spice and tart apples because I love the way the grassy celery flavor balances sweet heat. But feel free to play with flavors in the spirit of building produce-aisle fluency.
Food Network star Melissa d'Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook, "Supermarket Healthy." melissadarabian.Net
Celery root and chipotle
Remoulade slaw
Start to finish: 20 minutes. Servings: 6.
Ingredients
3 tablespoons light mayonnaise
3 tablespoons plain low-fat Greek yogurt
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons lemon juice
½ to 1 teaspoon chipotle chili powder, to taste
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1 pound celery root
2 tablespoons capers, drained
1 small Granny Smith apple, cored and cut into ¾ -inch cubes
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
1 scallion, finely chopped
Directions
In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, yogurt, mustard, lemon juice and chili powder. Season with salt and pepper, then set aside.
Use a paring knife or sturdy vegetable peeler to remove the skin of the celery root, then use the large side of a box grater to grate the root. Place the grated celery root in a large bowl and toss immediately with the dressing; this helps prevent the celery root from discoloring. Add the capers, apple, dill and scallion, then toss well. Serve.
Nutrition information per serving: 70 calories; 15 calories from fat (21 percent of total calories); 2 g fat (0 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 14 g carbohydrate; 2 g fiber; 5 g sugar; 2 g protein; 360 mg sodium.
Originally Published: March 30, 2015 at 11:12 AM MDT
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