At Roma in Rice Village, virtual wine dinners keep the restaurant afloat - Houston Chronicle

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At Roma in Rice Village, virtual wine dinners keep the restaurant afloat - Houston Chronicle Posted: 30 Jul 2020 08:00 AM PDT On a Thursday evening in July, exactly 131 days since I had last tucked my feet under a restaurant table, I attended a wine dinner. This being 2020 and all, it was a virtual dinner, but the ritual of it made me feel somewhat whole again. Roma, an Italian restaurant in Rice Village, has hosted online wine dinners every week since April 29. Given the coronavirus pandemic shutdowns, owner Shanon Scott needed a contingency plan. He decided to bring hospitality into people's homes. Guests register through the website, pick up their food and bottles of wine shortly before the event, return home and log on to Zoom promptly at 7:30 p.m., as one would for a dinner reservation. A representative of the featured winery — typically the winemaker — leads a discussion around the wines. Scott and chef Angelo Cuppone often drop in to talk about the food. Jeremy Parzen, a wine writer, educator and media consultant, has been in attendance since the beginning and took over as the host in mid-June. He says the dinners have become so popular they now sell out every week. While Roma receives a steady stream of takeout orders, the revenue from the virtual events is the restaurant's lifeline. "People like to have wine dinners in their pajamas," he said. "And not having to drive after they consume a bunch of wine." I must admit: Being in the comfort of my own home with a computer screen distancing me from other diners, my instinct was to stay in the quar-dress I had worn for several consecutive days prior, and eat my food from the provided takeout containers, as per (the new) usual. But when I returned home from picking up my dinner, I suddenly felt the need to recapture my past self. So, I showered, and even washed my hair. I put on my favorite blouse, which I hadn't worn since March (but paired it with athleisure shorts; let's not get carried away here). I decluttered and cleaned my dining room table, these days used as a hybrid desk-closet, and set it with plates, cutlery and glassware. I even gave the bread its own plate, with a little ramekin for dipping olive oil. It was all so simple, but gave me a glimpse back to the Before Times. I "arrived" a fashionable three minutes late and waved to the three dozen faces staring back at me through their Zoom squares. On HoustonChronicle.com: Your complete guide to the Houston-made 'Black Is Beautiful' beers The guest winemaker that week was Alicia Lini, a pioneer in Italy's Emilia-Romagna region who showed the world that Lambrusco — the often cloyingly sweet, mediocre bubbly — can be a high-quality, complex and food-friendly wine. The Roma dinner featured three of her Lini 910 wines: the Labrusca Rosato, the Labrusca Rosso, and the Scuro In Correggio Rosso. To pair, guests enjoyed chef Cuppone's arugula salad with figs, mortadella and Fontina cheese; four-cheese ravioli with confit cherry tomatoes and basil; and a honey-glazed pork chop with grapes and pearl onions. Lini, who generously agreed to be on the call despite it starting at 2:30 a.m. Italian time, introduced her family winery and spoke about each wine, Lambrusco in general, and the region she calls home as guests ate and drank. The discussion loosely followed the courses and each wine pairing, but allowed for flexibility in attendees' pace. Some actively participated, asking questions or complimenting the food and wine, while others were happy just to listen. Parzen says they limit attendance to 25 spots, simply to make every square fit in gallery view on Zoom. I found that it made for a relatively intimate gathering, but large enough that timid people could observe without the social pressure of making conversation. Parzen admits the first dinners were a little clumsy and not particularly well-attended. As time went on, the team smoothed out kinks. The dinner I attended still had its moments of awkwardness, such as people forgetting to mute and the occasional technical glitch. These nuisances are now so ingrained in our new normal, they're easy to brush passed. And they don't stop the guests from enjoying themselves. Parzen estimates that a third of people at each dinner are new to the event, with the rest repeat diners, who often bring new people into the fold. The night I dropped in, one regular couple had three friends in attendance, first-timers who they had introduced to the gatherings. Others knew each other too; it's an opportunity for people to socialize with friends and neighbors they haven't been able to see in a long time. Restaurant owners retooled and even overhauled their operations to survive during the pandemic. Some started offering grocery items, produce boxes or take-and-bake meals. Many are selling alcohol to-go, made possible with Gov. Greg Abbott's new orders on wine, beer, and eventually mixed drinks. On HoustonChronicle.com: Ranch Water is now in a can, still 100% Texan Roma's wine dinners are a pretty good deal: $89 per individual and $119 per couple for a three-course meal and three bottles of wine. Past featured wineries, all Italian, include Tinazzi, Pellegrino and Antonutti. The printed menu provided with the meal lists prices for each wine, giving diners the opportunity to purchase additional bottles at a discount, which also helps the restaurant. "The bottom line is the restaurant wouldn't be open right now if it weren't for these dinners," said Parzen. "We all want Roma to be there when things open up again." When Parzen asked for a show of hands at the beginning of the meal, only a few people said they had tasted Lambrusco before. By the end of the evening, positive reviews of Lini's offerings were rolling in. Roma's virtual dinners are just as much a forum for community and socialization as they are for discovering and learning about wine. Amos Benning, who regularly attends the dinners with his wife, Michelle, was delighted to be introduced to Lambrusco. As Lini said "buonanotte" before logging off, Benning unmuted to offer some parting words. "For me, wine is all about friendship and about people. It's a social lubricant and an opportunity for us to meet others," he said. "I am so happy to meet all of you who are on this platform this evening." emma.balter@chron.com

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