100 dishes from bygone Iowa City-area restaurants, remembered by LV readers - Little Village
Behind A Vegan Chef's Holistic Empire, An Ugly Reality
Josie Duran overheard Matthew Kenney's pitch many times.
As a lead server at Plant Food + Wine in Venice Beach, Calif., Ms. Duran often waited on Mr. Kenney, the restaurant's chef and owner, as he entertained potential investors on the restaurant's fig-tree-shaded patio, persuading them to trust him with their money for his ambitious culinary projects.
At a time when adopting a plant-based diet has become an environmental and ethical cause around the world, Mr. Kenney, 59, is among the world's most famous vegan chefs. Plant Food was the flagship restaurant of Matthew Kenney Cuisine, a sprawling, health-focused company that until recently operated, managed or invested in more than 50 restaurants across the globe, from Los Angeles to São Paulo to Dubai.
But Ms. Duran grew to resent Mr. Kenney's visits — in part, she said, because she believed she was helping the chef cultivate a misleading image of success.
"I just knew the investors were investing in a lost cause, and I couldn't say anything," said Ms. Duran, who worked at the restaurant from 2021 until she quit early last year. "I would have my check bounced for the fifth pay period in a row, and Matthew Kenney would be presenting to them how amazing Plant Food + Wine is doing."
In fact, Plant Food, which just relocated to the Four Seasons hotel in July, closed in January, the latest of at least 17 restaurants associated with Mr. Kenney that have shuttered since late 2021.
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Celebrating Passover With Plant-Based Meals
In addition to the Zucchini and Artichoke Kugel recipe below, grilled portobellos, cauliflower steaks, jackfruit brisket, and a roasted vegetable and quinoa dish are other entrees on our seder table. Great seder side dishes include roasted green vegetables, sweet potatoes, or carrots.
Below, I also share a healthier version of Matzo Brei, a delicious breakfast recipe that I loved making with my mom.
Egg Replacements for Passover RecipesMost traditional Passover recipes use numerous eggs, but I have altered our traditional recipes to accommodate a plant-based diet without altering the wonderful flavors and delicious meals that we share. Take time to read labels to check for eggs in many ingredients in prepackaged Passover foods.
For most recipes, I substitute eggs with flaxseed or chia seeds; for those who do not eat flaxseed on Passover, use chia seed. A flaxseed or chia seed egg can be made by mixing 1 tablespoon of ground flaxseed or whole chia seed with 3 tablespoons of water and letting sit for 10 minutes until congealed. For recipes with more than 2 eggs, I will use another substitute, such as banana or applesauce for baked goods or seltzer water for savory dishes. Check out the 10 egg replacement tips on the Physicians Committee's website.
Matzo Brei PancakesHere is a recipe for one of my favorite Passover breakfast dishes, Matzo Brei. Most matzo is vegan, as it is only made with flour and water. This delicious breakfast staple was made many times during the eight days of Passover by my mom, grandmother, and aunt. I have also made this many times for my kids before adopting a plant-based lifestyle. The original recipe calls for many eggs, like most of these holiday dishes. Veganizing this recipe has been a hit, and the eggs are not missed. Bananas, flaxseed, and nondairy milk add a wonderful flavor and texture to re-create this delicious recipe. I hope your family enjoys this classic Passover breakfast dish, too.
Makes 12-15 pancakes
Ingredients:
2 ripe bananas, mashed (if not ripe, place in oven at 250 F for 15 minutes until skin is brown)1 1/4 cups nondairy milk (I like flax milk)2 teaspoons vanilla3 tablespoons maple syrup3 tablespoons ground flaxseed1/2 teaspoon salt1/2 teaspoon baking powder1 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)3 cups matzo farfel, or matzo broken into tiny pieces
Directions:
Mix bananas, nondairy milk, vanilla, maple syrup, flaxseed, salt, baking powder, and cinnamon.
Add matzo farfel, or if it is not in your local grocer, just break matzo into tiny pieces by placing in a plastic bag and pounding with your fist.
Allow to sit for at least 30 minutes so the matzo absorbs the liquid. The matzo will become more mushy, and the consistency will be a thick, moldable batter/dough.
Heat a nonstick griddle or a frying pan to medium heat (no need for oil if using a nonstick pan). If you prefer, grease the pan with nonstick cooking spray or a vegan butter substitute such as Miyoko's cashew butter.
For Pancakes: Use a 1/4-cup scoop to scoop and mold dough into a ball. Then press flat in your hands, place onto the hot pan, and flip when edges look crisp, after approximately 3-4 minutes. Heat on the other side until the pancake is steaming.
For a Brei/Scramble: Place all of the dough onto the heated pan or griddle, and continually scramble and break apart the pieces with a spatula until the edges are brown and the scramble is steaming.
Eat as is, or top with fresh berries, bananas, grape jam, or syrup. Enjoy!
Matzo Ball SoupMatzo ball soup is seder staple that can be easily transitioned for a vegan seder. Fill a pot with chopped fresh onions, carrots, celery, parsnips, dill, and water; season with salt, pepper, and turmeric for a beautiful golden color; and let boil into a delicious vegetable soup. There are many vegan matzo ball recipes online. I have tried combining a few variations and found that the best way for vegan matzo balls not to fall apart is to bake them instead of boil. Just add to soup when serving no matter which recipe you choose.
Zucchini and Artichoke KugelKugel is a baked casserole commonly made from noodles or potatoes. During Passover, most Kugels are made with matzo or potatoes. This recipe is made with nutritious zucchini, artichokes, and potatoes, and does not contain eggs, as traditional kugels do.
Ingredients:
3 medium zucchinis, finely shredded1 golden potato, shredded1 cup canned artichokes, drain and chop, squeeze out excess liquid1 onion, finely chopped 2 teaspoons minced garlic2 flaxseed or chia seed eggs*1 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon pepper2 teaspoon cumin1/3 cup tahini1/3 cup seltzer 1 cup matzo meal**1/4 cup potato starch
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 375F. Prepare casserole dish with parchment paper or olive oil nonstick spray.
Make flaxseed or chia seed eggs.*
Heat pan to medium, and saute chopped onion and garlic with olive oil spray or water until caramelized and lightly brown, 5 -10 minutes.
Shred zucchini and potatoes into a large bowl. Add the sauteed onions, artichokes, flaxseed/chia seed mixture, seltzer, tahini, seasonings, potato starch, and matzo meal to the bowl. Mix it all together, do not over mix and place the entire mixture into the prepared pan.
Lightly spray olive oil over mixture and sprinkle with sea salt. Bake for 45 minutes. The kugel should be golden brown. If you wish, low broil for the last 3-4 minutes. Let sit for 10 minutes before slicing into squares to serve.
*To make flaxseed or chia seed eggs, combine 1 tablespoon of ground flaxseed or whole chia seeds with 3 tablespoons of water for each egg. Let sit for 10 minutes until congealed.
**If you would like a gluten-free version, substitute chickpea flour for the matzo meal. Most store-bought gluten-free matzo contains egg.
By Food for Life Instructor Suzanne Fellows
Maybe Gordon Ramsay Is Right About Cucumber Wellingtons, So Try These 11 Cucumber Recipes Instead
Beef Wellington is a classic British dish believed to be named after the Duke of Wellington, Arthur Wellesley, who defeated Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo. The dish consists of beef coated with pâté and duxelles and a mixture of finely chopped mushrooms wrapped in puff pastry and then baked to perfection. Its exact origins are unclear, with some theories suggesting it was inspired by the French filet de bœuf en croûte.
jump to the recipes
Beef Wellington became popular in the mid-20th century and is celebrated for its rich flavors and elegant presentation. In the 21st century, classic dishes are getting a modern twist with some chefs giving Wellington a major refresh.
Such was the case when a vegan chef, known on TikTok as @thenottychef, introduced the world to his Cucumber Wellington. Unlike the traditional beef-centered dish—which chef Gordon Ramsay is popular for perfecting—this version replaced the meat with a whole cucumber, wrapped in puff pastry.
"I don't know if I should be happily surprised or just upset," the TikTok chef said in the viral video. "But this actually tasted kind of good." The TikTok chef's intention was clear as he asked viewers to "please tag Gordon Ramsay," seeking to bring it to the chef's attention for commentary.
Gordon Ramsay/TheNottyChef TikTok
A chef known for his sharp critiques, Ramsay quickly responded with expected vigor on the video, which quickly gathered millions of views. "How dare you insult Wellington," Ramsay exclaimed in a duet on TikTok. "You need to get back to the vegan teacher's classroom, you doughnut."
The response from the TikTok community was equally mixed, with many echoing Ramsay's disapproval, and others amused or intrigued by the innovative vegan twist.
The Notty Chef went on to create a variety of recipes in a recurring TikTok series he titles "F*ck, That's Vegan"—where the recipes are only sometimes vegan.
Gordon Ramsay's own vegan WellingtonOver the years, Ramsay's tough love persona has evolved and so has his stance on plant-based food. Despite his criticism of the Cucumber Wellington, Ramsay himself developed a Beet Wellington—along with vegan Sunday roast dinners, eggplant steaks, plant-based bacon, and more—a few years back.
Gordon Ramsay
In a surprising turn on an episode of MasterChef in 2022, Ramsay confessed his love for vegan food, a significant revelation given his previous dismissive comments towards veganism.
"After all these years, I can finally admit that I actually love vegan food," Ramsay revealed on the show.
The chef underscored this newfound respect by demonstrating the technique behind his Beet Wellington, which he presented during the show's first-ever vegan cooking challenge.
Vegan cucumber recipes without the controversyIf you're looking for cucumber recipes with a little less controversy, we've pulled together a few of our favorites that we're sure Ramsay would love:
Japan: The Vegetarian Cookbook
1One-Step Japanese Cucumber Salad With Ume and ShisoThis salad quickly brings together the crisp textures of cucumber with the sourness of umeboshi plums and the minty freshness of shiso leaves, offering a refreshing side dish.Get the recipe
Sarah Bond
2Healthy Vegan Cucumber Sushi Rolls With Spicy MayoFeaturing crisp cucumber and creamy avocado, these sushi rolls provide a fresh take on the traditional sushi experience, complete with a spicy mayo that adds a flavorful kick.Get the recipe
Erin Scott
310-Minute Refreshing Vegan Watermelon and Cucumber SaladCombining the hydrating qualities of cucumber with sweet watermelon, this salad is perfect for a quick, refreshing meal, especially on warm days.Get the recipe
Sarah Bond
4Easy Vegan Bulgur Tabbouleh SaladRefreshing cucumber pieces add a crunchy texture to this bulgur wheat salad, mixed with juicy tomatoes and a rich blend of herbs, ideal for a nutritious lunch.Get the recipe
5Easy Vegan Spring Roll Bowl With Mango and AvocadoThis dish deconstructs the elements of a spring roll into a bowl, with cucumber slices adding freshness to the sweet mango and creamy avocado.Get the recipe
Lauren Toyota
6Easy Vegan Cold Cucumber Chile NoodlesCucumber ribbons are tossed with flat rice noodles and spicy chili oil, creating a dish that balances cool textures with hot flavors.Get the recipe
7Vegan Japanese-Inspired Rainbow Salad With Carrot-Ginger DressingA colorful and crunchy mix of vegetables, this salad uses cucumber for freshness, topped with a zesty carrot-ginger dressing that enhances every bite.Get the recipe
8Vegan Sweet Corn and Pepper Summer GazpachoThis vibrant chilled soup captures the essence of summer with its bright flavors, blending sweet corn with yellow bell peppers and cucumber. It's a refreshing meal ideal for hot days.Get the recipe
9Vegan Summery Picnic Pasta Salad with Italian VinaigrettePerfect for outdoor dining, this salad combines cooked fusilli pasta with an array of fresh vegetables including bell peppers, cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, and artichokes. Dressed in a homemade Italian vinaigrette that blends tangy, sweet, and savory flavors, enhanced by herbs and spices, this pasta salad is ideal for making ahead, allowing the flavors to meld together beautifully in the fridge.Get the recipe
10Vegan Crispy Rice Salad with Smashed Cucumbers and Spicy Pickled RadishesRich in texture, this dish combines golden-brown crispy rice with tangy, spicy pickled radishes and refreshing smashed cucumbers, dressed with a zesty lime dressing. Get the recipe
11Vegan Strawberry Lemon Elderflower MocktailThis sophisticated drink is perfect for summer and combines the sweetness of strawberries and the tartness of lemon with the floral notes of elderflower. Cucumber rounds add a crisp, hydrating element, making it a perfect non-alcoholic choice for any occasion. Get the recipe
If you're looking to add even more cucumber to your meals, head over to the VegNews recipe tab for creative dishes.
For more on vegan cooking, read:Anna Starostinetskaya is the Senior News Editor at VegNews and is always keeping an eye on all things vegan in her home city of San Francisco, CA and everywhere else.
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